I personally love a combination of oversize and comfort while looking amazing at the same time. This knit sweater pattern is one of many more to come as i am on a journey to knit (and crochet) my Pinterest board. So far, i love the results!
The Zipline Knit Sweater is a drop shoulder design giving you room for comfort while still looking stylish at the same time.
I learnt how to knit with the help of YouTube tutorials. And me being me, i went for the big projects way before i was ready. It was hard. But since i knew how to crochet, i won’t lie that helped a bit. So knowing the struggles of finding good materials that teach how to knit, i will keep this as beginner friendly as i can.
If you’d like to own this or any of my patterns in an ad free, downloadable and printable PDF format, you can find them in my shops: Ravelry, Lovecrafts, Ribblr.
If you already know how to knit a sweater, or you just want to see more of my free patterns, you might like some of these below.
Need help? Reach out
Incase something in the patter does not make sense, or you noticed a mistake (mistakes are inevitable right?? then be sure to reach out to me in Instagram or Facebook. and join my growing Facebook group.
Materials
DK weight yarn,
Yardage: 1,210 (2,090) 3,190 (4,290) 5,390 (6,490) 7,590) This corresponds to sizes XS (S) M (L)
XL (2XL) 3XL
4.5mm & 3.5mm knitting needles,
Needles: 4.5 mm [US7] / 80 and/or 100 cm [32 and/or 40 inches] and 3.5 mm [US4] / 40, 80
and/or 100 cm [16, 32 and/or 40 inches]
scissors,
yarn needle,
stitchnmarkers,
zipper :10/21″ zipper
Sizes and Measurements
Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL
Bust circumference: 106 (124) 135 (153) 160 (178) 188 cm, or [41.75″ (48.75″) 53″ (60.25″) 63″
(70″) 74″]
Gauge: 23 sts in 27 rows= 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7 needles
Level: intermediate Beginner
How to knit the Zipline Sweater
The Zipline Sweater is worked from the top down. First the top part of the back yoke is worked with
increases, then the shoulders are worked from stitches that are picked up and knitted along the
slanting sides at the back yoke.
Then the front and back are are connected and worked in the round on
circular needles and the sleeves are worked in the round on double-pointed needles or on a circular
needle using the Magic Loop technique.
At the end a folded neck is worked. The Zipline Sweater is
worked in stripes from the middle of the yoke and downwards.
Size Guide
The Zipline sweater is designed to have approx. 5″[13 cm] of positive ease for all sizes the sizes XS (S)
M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL are designed to fit bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110
(110-120) 120-130 cm or [31½ 33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼]
inches. Measure yourself before beginning the project to determine the size you need to make for
yourself.
Increases
Increases are worked so they are either slanted to the right M1R or to the left M1L
M1R: From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this strand.
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to
front, then purl this strand.
M1L: From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back,
then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to
back, then purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
Decreases
We work a decrease to either slant to the right(k2tog) or to the left (skp/ssk)
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.
Skp: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
About the stripes
We begin working the stripes at the end of our increases for both the front and back of the sweater.
The stripes are 2 rounds of black/ stripe color , 2 rounds in main color and 2 rounds in black/stripe
color making it a total of 6 rounds in tripes. Make sure to knit jogless
Free Knitting Zipline Sweater Pattern
Now let’s get to the fun bits!
Back Yoke
We begin by working the back yoke. After casting on the number of stitches needed for your size,
increases will be made for the back of the neck.
Cast on 26 (30) 30 (36) 42 (48) 54 sts on a 4.5 mm [US7] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle.
Set up row: Purl across 1 row. The next row is a RS row.
Work back and forth with increases for the back yoke as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (2 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): P3, M1R, purl to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1L, p3. (2 sts have been increased)
Repeat row 1 and 2 for 26 (30) 30 (36) 42 (48) 54 rows.
There are now a total of 78 (90) 90 (108) 126 (144) 162 stitches on the needle
We are done increasing for the back. We will now start working the stripes. Remember, the stripes are
worked every 20 rows. That means, 20 rows in main color then we work 2 rows of black, 2 rows of main
color, 2 rows of black. A total of 6 rows for the stripes.
Now knit in stockinet for 26 (30) 30 (36) 42 (48) 54 rows. Remember to work the stripes after 20 rows
within the 26 (30) 30 (36) 42 (48) 54 rows of stockinet you are working.
Break yarn and put the stitches on hold while the shoulders are worked.
Left Shoulder
RS facing and with the 4.5 mm [US7] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle, pick up and knit the 27 (31)
31 (37) 43 (49) 55sts along the slanting side at the back yoke (this is the equivalent to picking up 1
stitch in every stitch along the entire slanting section of the back yoke where the increases are). The
direction for picking up and knitting stitches is from the neck and towards the armhole edge.
Set up row : purl all stitches
Work back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat these two rows till row 6 for all sizes
Row 7: K2, M1R, knit all stitches
Row 8: Purl all stitches
Row 9: K2, M1R, knit all stitches.
Repeat these two rows till you have increased a total of 10 times for all sizes. You should have 37(41)
41 (47) 53 (59) 65 stitches on your needle
After working the 10 increases, purl the next row.
We are done increasing.
Cast On 8 (10) 10 (13) 16 (19) 22
We are done increasing for the left shoulder, at this point, we have competed 26 rows for all sizes.
Row 27: knit all stitches
Row 28: Purl all stitches
Repeat these two rows till you need to work your strpes. Work your first stripe on row 47 (51) 51 (57)
63 (69) 75
Be sure to match the left shoulder rows with the back. i.e, for size xs, you stop working after the 6 rows
of stripes were made for the back, do the same for the front, for size S, you work 4 extra rows after the
black stripe etc. be sure to match the back and front.
Break yarn and leave stitches on holder
Right Shoulder
RS facing and with the 4.5 mm [US7] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle, pick up and knit the 27 (31)
31 (37) 43 (49) 55sts furthest to the right along the slanting side at the back yoke (this is the equivalent
to picking up 1 stitch in every stitch along the entire slanting section of the back yoke where the
increases are). The direction for picking up and knitting stitches is from the armhole edge and towards
the neck.
Purl across 1 row
Work back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across.
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Repeat these two rows till row 6 for all sizes
Row 7: Knit till 2 stitches remain, M1L, knit 2
Row 8: Purl all stitches
Row 9: Knit till 2 stitches remain, M1L, knit 2
Repeat these two rows till you have increased a total of 10 times for all sizes. You should have 37(41)
41 (47) 53 (59) 65 stitches on your needle.
After working the 10 increases, purl the next row.
We are done increasing.
Row 27: knit all stitches, at the end, Cast on 8 (10) 10 (13) 16 (19) 22
Row 28: Purl all stitches
Row 29: knit all stitches
Repeat these two rows till you need to work your stripes. Work your first stripe on row 47 (51) 51 (57)
63 (69) 75
Be sure to match the right shoulder rows with the back. i.e, for size xs, you stop working after the 6
rows of stripes were made for the back, do the same for the front, for size S, you work 4 extra rows
after the black stripe etc. be sure to match the back and front.
Do not break off yarn. Join your work in the round to connect the right shoulder panel to the left
shoulder panel and the back.
From here on we will work in the round.
Remember that after 20 rounds, we work 6 rows of stripes (2 rows black, 2 rows main color and 2 rows
black).
Work the body till your cardigan sits 5 inches to where you would like it to reach then switch to the
4mm needle for the ribbing.
Work 1X1 ribbing.
Collar
We begin picking uo stitches from the right front. We will pick up the cast on stitches followed by the
increases. For the increases, we will pick up 2 for every 3 stitches, then we will pick up al the Cast on
stitches for the back of the neck. Then 2 for every 3 stitches for the left front increases then all stitches
from the cast on.
Following that, you will pick up 78 (86) 86 (98) 110 (122) 134 stitches.
The collar is worked in a 1X1 rib. Work the collar till it measures 10” or to your desired length. But
remember, we will fold the collar for the zip, so whatever length you choose, double it.
After you get your desired length, cast off and sew the collar to the original cast on NEATLY!
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round on 4.5 mm [US7] double-pointed needles or a long circular needle
using the Magic Loop technique. Pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows. There are now a total of 52 (60)
60 (72) 84 (96) 108 sts on the needles.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the sleeve is 5 inches from your wrist. while at the same
time working decreases every 30 round. Remember to work the stripes after every 20 rows of main
color.
Work a decrease round as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts of the round, skp, k1. Adjust the
length to fit with the stripe pattern (end with 6 rounds of main color). Work 1X1 rib (k1,p1) with a
3.5mm needle then bind off. Rep this for the other sleeve.
Weave in all ends.
